Brazil and La Plata: the personal record of a cruise

CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Departure from Cape Henry — Sacrifices In Naval Life — Evening Prayers — First Casualty — Sabbath at Sea — Scene in the Gulf Stream — My Ship and Shipmates — The Crew, 1 CHAPTER II. Great Caycos — Case of Punishment — Tho Cat-o'-nine Tails — Moral Effects of the Lash — Evening on board a Man-of-War — Scenes off Havana — Entrance into Port, 18 CHAPTER III. The Prisoners of Contoy — Excitement at Havana — The Captain General and Chief of Police — Visits of Ceremony — Drive on Shore — The Volante — Paseo and Champs de Mars — Evening Promenade — Visit to Regia by Night — The Captive Filibusters — Destiny of Cuba, 26 CHAPTER IV. Gulf of Florida — The Wreckers — Incidents in tho Sick Bay — Maury's Wind and Current Charts — The Doldrums — Crossing the Line — Neptune Aboard — Dreams of Home — Impediments to Piety on board a Man-of-War — Giving up Grog, 42 CHAPTER V. Cape Frio — Coast Scene — Bay of Rio — Reminiscence of the Past — City of Rio — Yellow Fever — Equipages — Drive to Botafogo — A Tropical nome, 68 CHAPTER VI. First Impressions at Rio — Mixture of Races — Senate Chamber — Imperial Legislature — Form of Government — Council of State — Ministry — Nobility — The Court in State — The Emperor and Empress, 70 CHAPTER VII. Cemetery of Gamboa — Governor Kent — Tomb of the Hon. William Tudor — Island and Fortress of Villegagnon — Discovery of Brazil — Huguenot Colonists — Treachery of Villegagnon — Progress in Civilization — State of the Empire — Its Dangers and Safeguards, 80 CHAPTER VIII. Praya Grande and Praya San Domingo — Bay of St Francis Xavier — Passage to the Plata — Montevideo — Sea-Birds — Cape Pigeon — Albatross — Booby — Stormy Petrel — Dolphin — Nautilus — Portuguese Man-of-War, 90 CHAPTER IX. Rio de Janeiro — The City Palace — Scenes at Court — Mode of Presentation — Character of the Emperor and Empress — Their Habits of Life — Suppression of Slave Trade — Illness of a Sailor-boy — First Death on board the Congress, 104 CHAPTER X. All Souls' Day — Church and Convent of San Antonio — Commemoration of the Dead — Manner of preserving the Bonos of the Dead — Ascent of the Corcovado — Panoramic View — Sources of the Aqueduct — Its Construction and History — Doscent of the Hill of Santa Theresa, 117 CHAPTER XI. Prisons and Prison Discipline — Ball on Ship-board — F6te at the American Ambassador's — Western Suburbs of Rio — Country Seat of Mr. R British Flag-Ship — Admiral and Mr. Reynolds — Garden of Don Juan M Madame M 128 CHAPTER XII. Weather at Rio — Meteorological Changes — Mountain Walks — Shops and Shopping — Restrictions upon Females by Custom — Slaves at Auction — Birthday of Don Pedro II. — National Hymn and Air — A Yankee Captain's Opinion of Court State — The Emperor afloat, 148 CHAPTER XIII. W edding at the American Consulate — Marriage at the Orphan Asylum — Foundling Hospital — Foreign Commerce — Arrivals in Port — U. S. Sloop St. Mary — Captain Magruder — Botanical Garden — Storm from the Corcovado — Fete at the Chapel Santa Lucia — Churches on Christmas Eve — Twelfth Night Party — Youthful Piety in Military Life, 154 CHAPTER XIV. Montevideo — Its Political Condition — First Impressions on Shore — Mr. H and Family — British Church and Services, 160 CHAPTER XV. Buenos Ayres — Mode of Landing — Reception of Commodore McKeever — Evening Drive — Negro 'Washerwomen — Carts of the Pampas — Washington's Birthday — Mr. Harris, American Charge d' Affaires — Quinta of Palermo — Dona Manuelita de Rosas — Pleasure Grounds — Interview with Rosas — His Appearance and Conversation, 178 CHAPTER XVI. The Argentine Confederation — Early Life of Rosas — A Type of the People — Life in the Pampas — Police of Buenos Ayres — Description of the City — Visit to the Conde de Bessi — Nuncio from the Pope, 188 CHAPTER XVII. Montevideo — Store-ship Southampton — Dr. C , Fleet Surgeon — The Poor of Montevideo — French Troops — Dress of the Guacho — Mr. and Madame L Mrs. Z Pamperos at Montevideo — Diseases of the Climate — Marriage of Dr. K of the St. Louis — Funeral of Mra. S Protestant Burial-Ground, 198 CHAPTER XVIII. Island of St. Catherine — Scenery at Santa Cruz — Captain Cathcart acting Consul — City of Desterro — Its Public Square — Market Place — Hotel — Civility of the In- habitants — Manufactures of Flowers in Feathers and Shells — Dinner — Waiter and Waitress — Walks at Santa Cruz — An Unexpected Recognition — Dangerous Walking Ground, 209 CHAPTER XIX Return to Rio de Janeiro — Winter Weather there — The Larangelms or Orange Val- ley — Walk along the Aqueduct — Festivals of the Romish Church — Corpus Christi and St John's Days — Marriages at the Orphan Asylum — Hospital of the Miseracordia — Magnificence of the New Building — Country Seat of Mr. M Scenes at a Wedding — Lieut R Smuggled Liquor and the Consequence — A Reproof to Despondency, 220 CHAPTER XX Political State of Montevideo — Defection of Urquiza — Address of Rosas — Retreat of Oribe — Visit to the Mount — Pacification at Montevideo — Termination of the Siege — Scenes in the Streets and Suburbs, 287 CHAPTER XXI. Visit to Urquiza — nis Encampment at Pantanoso — Marqued of Commander-in-Chief — Travelling Carriage and Baggage Wagon — Adjutant on Duty — Reception — Per- sonal Appearance of Urquiza — His Pet Mastiff — Professed Purposes of the Liberator — His past History and Domestic Relations — The Cerrito and its Fortress — Town of Restoracion — A Gilpin-like Ride — Guacho Soldiers in Camp — Their Dress, Pastime and Subsistence — Mode of Slaughtering Cattle — Proclamation by Urquiza, 249 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Brazil — Assault of a Runner on board the Congress — Captain McIntosh — His Transfer to the Falmouth — Departure for the United States — Making Daylight — Ship's Library — Sailors as Readers — Street Calls in Rio — Civility and Patience of the People — Disinclination to locomotion — Omnibuses — Mules and Omnibus Drivers, 266 CHAPTER XXIII. Ban Aliexo — Mr. and Mrs. M Steam Packet — Passengers — Image Tenders — San Antonio — Superstition of the People — Experience in Miracles — Admiral T Luncheon — Negro Valet — Piedade — An American Wagon — White Mules — Turnpike — Character of the Scenery — Town of Maje — Private Road of Mr. M Cotton Factory and American House — Sabbath at San Aliexo — Romish Clergy — Peak Vallejo and River — Rain in the Mountains — Sudden Rise in the Streams — Mandioca Mill — Difficulties encountered by Mr. M 2T5 CHAPTER XXIV. Christmas — Marriage of Miss K Negroes in the Holidays — Scene of Revelry in the Laranjeiras — Amusing Street Scene — Custom-House Regulations — Characteristic want of Confidence — Security of Property and Person — Criminal Prosecutions — Forms in Court — Manner of taking the Oath — Public executions — Return to Montevideo — State of Affairs in the Plata — Invasion of Buenos Ayres by Urquiza — Tragic Fate of Missionaries in Terra del Fuego, 291 CHAPTER XXV. Overthrow of Rosas — Dona Manuelita at Palermo — Her Escape at Night in Disguise on board an English Man-of-War — Pillage in Buenos Ayres — First Checked by the Marines of the Congress and Jamestown — Summary Punishment of the Marauders — Urquiza at Palermo — General Terero — Visit to the Wounded in the Hospital — Suburbs of the City — English Burial-Ground — Government House built by Rosas, 307 CHAPTER XXVI. Battle field of Monte Caseros — Scenes on the Way — Santos Lugares — Anecdotes of the Conflict — Triumphal Entry of the Allied Armies into Buenos Ayres — Te Deum at the Cathedral and Thanksgiving Sermon, 322 CHAPTER XXVII. Hospitality in Buenos Ayres — Return to Montevideo — Public Rejoicings — Admirals Lepredour and Grenfell — Deep-Sea Soundings — Sea Scene — Walks at Desterro — Praya Compreda — A Yankee Cobbler — Ride to San Pedro d' Alcantara — Indoor Scenes — Our Host and his Housemaid — Preparations for the Night — Chapel and Cemetery — Mountain Scenery — Morning Visit to a German Family — A Feat of Agility — Luncheon — Milk and Mandioca — Departure from San Pedro — Ride by Night, 334 CHAPTER XXVIII. Desterro — Mr. Wells — Funeral of a Child — Evening Walk — A Novena — Singular Usage — Auction at the Church — Mock Emperor — Evening Ride — Mountain View — Habits in Rural Life — Indians — Venomous Snakes — Antidote for the Poison of Snakes — Whit-Sunday — Coronation of the Mock Emperor — President of St. Catherine — Preaching by the Vicar — Appointment and Support of the Clergy — Pastime at Santa Cruz — Impoverished Germans — Estate of Las Palmas — Senor de L Antonio de L Coup d'Etat by Urquiza — Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Lore — Protestant Churches — Rural Scenes — Native Cows — Hon. Mr. Schenck — Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher, 359 CHAPTER XXIX. Ascent of the Sierra of the Organ Mountains — Frieschal — La Barriera — Mules and Muleteers — Mountain Wood in Flower — Boa Vista — H Hall — Arrival at Constantia — Mr. Heath — His Estate — Slaves and their Treatment — Morning and Evening Benedictions — Mountain Route to Petropolis — Woodland Scenery — Monkeys — Isolated Peaks — Valley of Piabanha — Mule Riding — Petropolis — German Protestant Church, 401 CHAPTER XXX Buenos Ayres in 1858 — Revolution and Civil War — Mode of Conducting it — Savage Atrocities of the Outside Party — Failure of all Mediations in effecting a Pacification-Final Departure of Commodore McKeever and Suite — Homeward Bound, 418 Postscript 425 Digitized by Google.