CONTENTS CHAPTER I. The R. M. Steamship Java — Departure from Boston — The Captain and Officers — Arrival at Halifax — At Sea — Meeting with a solitary little Boat — A Sketch of the Passengers — Sea-sickness, and a yearning for Land — The Coast of Ireland — Anchored off Liverpool — The Custom-house Officers — Death of a Passenger — Farewell to the Ship, 13 CHAPTER II. Liverpool — The Crowded Hotels — An Evening Stroll — Midnight, and a cry of Murder — Picturesque Scenery by Rail to London — Arrival at the Capital — Impressions on the Wing — The Journey to Paris, 32 CHAPTER III. The Champs Elysees — The People — The Exhilaration of the Climate — Arc de Triomphe dc l'Etoile — The Palace of the Tuileries — Place de la Concorde — Dinner Parties of American Residents — The Flowers and Fruits — A Promenade in the Tuileries Garden — A Child's sympathy for Marie Antoinette's Fate — America overruled by a Cuisinidre — The Bois de Boulogne, and the Review of the French Troops by Napoleon and the Emperor of Austria — The Universal Exposition at Champ de Mars — Its Contents — The Gardens and Model Buildings — The Statues of King William of Prussia, Sappho, and the Loves of the Angels, 41 CHAPTER IV. Pere la Chaise on All Saints' Day — Tribute to the Dead — Tomb of Abelard and Heloise, of the Tragedian Rachel, and other Celebrities — Little Graves — The various Departments of the Exposition — France Triumphant — Napoleon and Francis Joseph — The Emperor's Pavilion — The Fine Arts — The Statue of Napoleon I pre-eminent — The Statuo of La Femme Adultere — Evening Reception at Homo — Mile. Schneider in La Grande Duchesse — Theatre of Porto St. Martin, and the play of Biche au Bois — The Ballet — The Gardens at the Exposition, and the American Soda Fount — The Beauty of American Women — The Close of the Exposition, 59 CHAPTER V. The Restaurants — A Lively Scene at the Diner do Paris — America Blundering over the Language — Bridal Reception — The Centenarian, Count de Waldeck — The Churches of Notre Dame and St. Sulpice — The Latin Quarter : its Fountains, and the Popular Stores, Bon Marche and Petit St. Thomas — The Gay Boulevards — Malmaison — Rueil — St. Germain, its Terrace and Forest, 81 CHAPTER VI. Brussels — Hotel de Ville — Laces ut the House of Everaert and Sister — St. Gudule — Catholic Worship — The Journey to the Hague — An Importunate Custom-house Officer — Swindling practised on Travelers — Arrival at the Belle Vue Hotel — The Town and its Inhabitants — A view of Haarlem and Leiden — The Dutch Cows — Amsterdam — The Women with their Scrubbing Brooms — A Tribute to the Sobriety of the People — An Example to our Country — A Picture Gallery — The King's Palace — The Throne Chair — The Canals and Docks — The Serenaders, and the Charm of Music — A sketch of a Room at Brack's Doelen Hotel — En route to Rotterdam — An Incident of Travel — Located at New Bath Hotel — Old Irish Gentleman at the Dinner-table — Busy Life on the Quay — The Cathedral Church of St. Lawrence — The Fish Market — Dutch Costumes — The Meuse River — Antwerp — Table d'Hote at Hotel St. Antoine — The Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the Chefs d'AEuvre of Rubens — The Church of St. Andrew, containing the finest Pulpit in the Netherlands — The Church of St. Augustine, with the Painting of the Mystical Marriage of St. Catherine — The Church of St. Jacques, with , the Tomb of Rubens — St. Paul's Church — Representation of Calvary — An Old Woman at Prayer — A Funeral Procession — The Museum and its Pictures — The Artist who Painted with his Toes — The Chimes of Bells — The Wiertz Museum at Brussels, 95 CHAPTER VII. Return to Paris — Observance of our President's Thanksgiving Proclamation — Impressions formed of French Character — Place Vendome — The Opera Comique, and the Play of Robinson Crusoe — The Market, and a Vindictive French Female — Hotel des Invalides and its Veterans — The Church Service, and the Military Band — The Palais Royal — The Recherche Taste of Prince Napoleon and the Princess Clotilde — The Studio of Gustave Dore — The Genius and Personal Appearance of the Artist, - 135 CHAPTER VIII. Reading by Mrs. Leigh Ward — The Passage Delorme and the Doll-baby Show — The Charm of Home Letters — Sacred Memories — The Christmas Tree, and "Young America" — Midnight Mass at the Madelaine — Sudden Death of an American Journalist — Promenade of the Emperor and Empress on the Champs Elysees, Christmas Day — The Boulevard des Italiens with Holiday Decorations — A Frenchman Intoxicated by Beauty — A Museum of Wax Figures — Peters' Restaurant, and the French Apology for Oysters, - 151 CHAPTER: IX. Entertainment at the Grand Hotel — Hotel Lambert, and Fair for the Benefit of poor Poles — The Seine — The American Episcopal Church — The New Year — An American Rose-bud, 154 CHAPTER X. Soirees Dansantes — The Skating Park at the Bois de Boulogne — The Prince Imperial on the Ice — The Night Carnival — The Emperor and Empress on Skates — Presentation to their Imperial Majesties — The first Court Ball of the Season — The Empress' Toilette — The Princess Mathilde — The Princess Metternich — The Americans present — Skating at Longchamps and at VSsinet — The Madelaine Flower Market, - 169 CHAPTER XI. Soirees by the American Minister and other Residents — The Morgue — Soiree Musicale — The Greek Church — The Park Monceaux — The Church of St. Augustine — The Avenue de l'Imperatrice on a Sunday Afternoon — Madame Busque, or Charlie's Restaurant ; and its specialty, Buckwheat Cakes, 185 CHAPTER XII. Washington's Birthday Celebrated — Mardi-gras — A Fancy Costume Ball — Concert by an American Pianist — A Night of Revelry on the Boulevard des Italiens — "Last Rose of Summer" and "Home, Sweet Home," by Mme. Luchese — Interior of the Madelaine by Twilight — Thefitre Lyrique, and the Operetta of La Fanchonette — The Prima Donna, Mme. Carvalho — The Opera Comique, and Mile. Marie Roze in Le Premier Jour de Bonheur — The Sewers, or Paris Underground — Foreign Society — The Palais Royal Theatre, and the Play of La Yie Parisienne, 194 CHAPTER XIII. The Chapel of the Tuileries — The Emperor, Empress, and Prince Imperial at their Devotions — The Anniversary of the Prince Imperial's Birth, a holiday event — Mi Carfimo Carnival — A Mask Ball at the Opera House — Strauss' Music — French Liberties — Soiree of a Prussian Lady and the magnificence of Toilettes — Masquerade Fancy Ball — Beautiful Women, and Gorgeous Costumes — Grand Viaduct — The Park d'Auteuil — Croix Catelan — Vaclierie at Pre Catelan, 211 CHAPTER XIV. Palace at Versailles — Patti in Italian Opera — Concert at the Hotel de Ville — Baron and Baroness Haussman — The Artists and their Operatic Selections — The Environs of Paris in Spring Verdure — St. Eustache on Good Friday — American Episcopal Church on Easter Sunday — Easter Gifts — The Cirque Napoleon — The Trained Dogs and the Amphibious Man — Wedding in High Life — The English Charity Ball at the Grand Hotel — Lord Lyons — The English Admiral, and a gouty Marquis on the "light fantastic toe," 228 CHAPTER XV. Preaching by Lord Radstoek — The French Charity Ball, a Brilliant Scene — Children at play on the Champs Elysees — Lady Cowper's Salons — A day at the Bois de Boulogne, the Brides ajried, and the Ducks on a Raid — The Conservatoire de Musique — Mayday — Musard's Concert — Reminiscences of Versailles — The Trianons — The Fountains — A Funeral Cortege, 243 CHAPTER XVI. Grand Opera House, and Performance of La Juive — The Imperial's Stables — The Prince Imperial's First Communion — A Lady Killed by a Runaway Horse — The Bois de Boulogne by Moonlight — The Races at Longeliamps — Fine Arts at the Palais do l'Industrie — The Tower of St. Jacques — The Bois de Vincennes, - 255 CHAPTER XVII. Fontainebleau — The Palace — -The Forests — The Old Woman on Top of the Tower, and the French Flag — The Conciergerie, and the Pictures of Marie Antoinette — Her Crucifix — The Pantheon, and the Echo of the Crypt — The Library Saint Genevieve — Saint Chapelle — The Boulevard St. Michel, the Grisette, the Skeleton-man and the Italian Savoyard — Dinner at the Bois de Vincennes — Concert at the Cirque l'imperatrice — Dupre's Oratorio, the Last Judgment — Hotel de Cluny — The Louvre — The Venus de Milo — The Luxembourg Garden — The Fairy-bower, - 266 CHAPTER XVIII. The Chantilly Races — Tomb of Napoleon — The Hippodrome — The Emperor at the Bois de Boulogne — The Cirque de l'imperatrice — An American Performer, and a Squeaking Violin — Paintings at the Louvre — St. Cloud on a Fte-day — The Chateau — Fire-works at Night — Party by Baron de la 288 CHAPTER XIX. Luxembourg Palace — The Churches of the Madelaine, St. Germain l'Auxerrois and St. Roch — The Garden Mabille — The Danseuses — The Museum at the Louvre — The Church of St. Clotilde — The Artillery Museum — The Maynard Rifles — The Garden of Plants — The Buttes de Chaumont, 304 CHAPTER XX. Saint Denis — Sevres Factory — The Old Painter at Work — A Cafe Chantant — The Chapelle Expiatoire — The Rag-pickers — Closeric de Lilas, the Students' Elysium — Chapel St. Ferdinand — Jardin d'Acclimatation — Farewell to Paris, 310 CHAPTER XXI. Scene on the English Channel — London — Charing Cross Hotel — Houses of Parliament — Westminster Abbey — Mme. Tussaud's Wax-works — Kings and Queens, and some of America's Statesmen — The Chamber of Horrors, and the Happy Ignorance of an Irish Woman — The Crystal Palace, and a Grand Operatic Concert — Titiens, and other Singers of Her Majesty's Opera — The English Women — A Restaurant without Waiters — Pyrotechnic Display in the Gardens — Preaching by Spurgeon — Music at Westminster, 332 CHAPTER XXII. St. Paul's Church — The Everlasting Sixpence — The Tower of London, and Gloomy Impressions — The British Museum — Hyde Park — The Sunlit Scene — Hampton Court — A Picturesque Spot — The Famous Grape Vine — Dinner at the Star and Garter Hotel at Richmond — The Tempting White Bait, 360 CHAPTER XXIII. Greenwich — The Poor of London — The Thames Tunnel — The Cremorne Gardens — The Dancing — The Hermit's Cave, and the Magical Mirror — South Kensington Museum — The Zoo- logical Gardens — The Monkeys — The Elephant in Service — Regent Street and Piccadilly — The Bustle and Gay Life — Blanchard's Restaurant — Haymarket Theatre and Sothern the Actor — Farewell to London — Liverpool — Preparing to Sail — The R. M. Steamship Scotia homeward bound — Charlotte Cushman, a passenger — The Perils of Icebergs, and other Woes — "Home Again," 300 Digitized by Google.